The Surfing Heritage Foundation

Legendary Surfers Updates:

Legendary Surfers Updates

Gem Of The Week:

Sign up for our
Email Newsletter

Follow us on:

Follow us on Twitter



Subscribe to our feeds...

Subscribe to the Surfing Heritage Main Exhibits RSS Feed Surfing Heritage

Subscribe to the Legendary Surfers RSS Feed Legendary Surfers


The Surfing Heritage Foundation is Powered by Blogger

Subscribe to
Posts [Atom]

Dora's Bruce Jones Board

This is a late-'70s Bruce Jones, 7'8.5" rounded diamondtail that was owned and ridden by Miki in Europe. It was donated by Miki's girlfriend, Cece, along with a similar period board that was shaped by Bill Shrosbree on the Fresh Pineapple label. Both are single fins and still had the leashes attached. Always wanted to ask Bruce about the board but procrastinated too long and now will never know. There's a moral in there somewhere. 
Miki surfing at the 1965 Malibu Invitational Surfing Contest. Photo: Ron Stoner/SURFER Magazine Collection


Mick Fanning, 2013 World Champ!

photo: Sharon Marshall
Mick Fanning, 2013 World Champ. This tribute is a little over due, but as they say, “better late than something or other.” Mick only won 1 event during the 2013 season (Quik Pro France) but managed to place high enough throughout the year (a 2nd in Fiji, 4-3rds, 3-5ths, etc.) to secure his 3rd World Championship, proving lightning sometimes strikes thrice. This board was secured for us by Sharon Marshall, and was ridden by Mick in 2009 at the Trestles contest, which he won. He then went on to win his second world title (his first was in 2007). We finally tracked Mick down a year later at that same contest and got him to sign the board. Thank you Mick and Sharon! 


The Oldest Surf Contest Still Running

The Brooks St. Surfing Classic was started in 1955 in Laguna Beach, Ca. It is the oldest continuing surf contest in the world. Last year in 2012they celebrated the 50th running of the contest. This is a heat sheet from the very first contest, with quite a few recognizable names posted (our own Dick Metz being among them). This came to us by way of Donnie Crevier (Crevier Classic Cars). There's a Facebook page that's been created for this annual event.


1965 Duke Kahanamoku Invitational

This shot was taken at the first annual Duke Kahanamoku Invitational Surf Contest which began in 1965 and was held at Sunset Beach on the North Shore of Oahu (it was later replaced by the Billabong Pro in 1985). This contest was the first surfing event to be broadcast on a regular basis by ABC's Wide World of Sports. Among those in the shot are Jackie Eberle (legendary surfer), Robert August (Endless Summer), Dick Metz (SHACC founder), Nat Norfleet (founder of Kahala sportswear), and Duke Kahanamoku, at the opening reception, Moana Surfrider, December 13, 1965. Photo: Tim McCullough Collection


Wooden Paddleboard Donated

Amaro Lozano's uncle Claudio Acevedo had this paddleboard for over 40 years. Amaro's wife told him the board needed to go, so rather than chop it up for firewood, Amaro decided Surfing Heritage would be a good home for it. Most likely built sometime in the late-1930s to mid-1940s, this looks to be a well made do-it-yourself model, most likely based off of Tom Blake's blueprints that were produced in Popular Mechanics in 1937. There's a hole on the deck where Claudio had patched it with some bandaids.


But Where's Goofy?

Another Gem from the Takayama Family collection, now on display at the SHACC. Two legends that left too soon—Miklos Sandor Dora and Donald Moke Takayama. Mickey (Miki) and Donald. Photo by Michael Halsband taken at Noosa, Australia, in 2001. There's some heavy tip time taking place up in heaven!


A Simmons Slot made by Greg & Jed Noll

The original Bob Simmons Slot boards are among the most rare and sought-after collectible surfboards. There are only a few in existence, one belonging to the Meistrell family and that is the one this board, made by Greg and Jed Noll was modeled after. Founding Partners and Donor Circle Level Members, Nick and Terri Bacica recently donated this and a beautiful multi-stringered Harbour balsa board. The 3 Amigo collaboration boards (Doc Ball, LeRoy Grannis, and Whitey Harrison) were also made by Greg and Jed and were donated by Nick and Terri.
The original Meistrell board, once owned by Dale Velzy. You can read about it and more about Bob Simmons in our online feature, HERE. Photo: Mike Balzer


Surfer's Choice

So Donald Takayama could shape wicked boards, ride the tip like it's nobody's business, and was such a wicked BBQer, that he and Syd decided to produce and market their own marinades! Here are some excerpts from an LA Times article from back in May, 1990:

No longer does he make the recipe in large drums in his back yard. Gone too are the empty whiskey bottles and gallon jugs he would fill with the dark blend to give to friends. And he no longer markets it at the local surf shops. Now he deals with the largest food distributors on the West Coast. His product line includes the teriyaki sauce (called "Da Kine"), and a sweet and chunky pineapple marinade.
He gets letters almost every day from people describing how they use Surfer's Choice. "Some people dunk doughnuts in it, others put it on their hash browns and eggs. One of my friends can't eat cottage cheese without it, and one guy wrote me saying he even drinks the stuff," Takayama said. Most people use it with fish, poultry and meat dishes either as a sauce or marinade.

Unfortunately, like Donald, the marinades are now relegated to our fond memories. Come celebrate his memory on Nov. 16, his birthday, from 4-7pm at the SHACC

$5 admission, FREE for members of SHACC.

You can read the complete LA Times article HERE


A Young Older Ho

There are surfing families and then there are dynasties. The Ho clan definitely falls into the later category. This generation is familiar with Coco Ho and her older brother Mason but before they were even conceived, their father Michael Ho, along with his younger brother Derek (1993 World Champion and holder of 3 Triple Crowns), were fierce competitive forces to be reckoned with (and on any given day, still are). Michael won the Hawaiian Triple Crown, the Duke Classic, the World Cup and the 1982 Pipe Masters and although one associates the Ho name with Hawaii, Michael was in fact born in San Mateo, California. That humble birth did not deter Michael, as you'll note in this description of him from

The most consistent performer of the past three decades on the heaviest stretch of surf in the world happens to be one of the smallest. At a mere 5'5" and 135 pounds, Michael Ho personally proved size to be of little importance when it comes to bravery on the North Shore. His expertise was not limited to big surf, as he became a highly successful and feared competitor in all conditions, finishing in the ASP Top 16 for 10 consecutive seasons. 

Coco and Mason continue to carry the mantle well. You can read the rest of Michael's write-up on Surfline HERE.

This photo is from the Clarence Maki Collection and was taken July 16, 1972, Michael had just won the Waikiki Junior Surfing Championships, a mere 3 days after his fourteenth birthday. A side note, Don Ho, the famous Hawaiian crooner is Michael and Derek's cousin. 


Early Rick Griffin artwork on display

Rick Griffin (1944-1991) first reveled in the art and politics of the counterculture as a surfer. A teenager in Southern California during the late 1950s and early 1960s, he developed the seminal cartoon-strip character, Murphy, published in Surfer magazine. Griffin's rebellious and prankish cartoon character initiated the surf cartoon genre and helped define the look and voice of the incipient surf culture. Griffin, a pioneer of surf cartoons and psychedelic album-cover art, lived in San Clemente during the 1970s. He died in a 1991 motorcycle accident. Griffin's Quigley murals are among the earliest examples of his surf cartoon art and are among the few murals from this period to have survived.

Nationally recognized architect Rob Quigley grew up in a bedroom in Pacific Palisades lined with these murals painted by artist Rick Griffin. Quigley's work has garnered more than 60 design awards from the American Institute of Architects (AIA). In 2005, the AIA California Council honored Rob with the Maybeck Award-California's equivalent of the Gold Medal-for three decades of architectural design excellence. Quigley points to Griffin as a strong early influence.

Thank You to Joe Knoernschild for rescuing the artwork which was on the walls of Quigley's former residence (which was being demolished), and to Hal Forsen and John Warren for all their help in transporting, cutting down, and hanging these pieces for display in our museum!
The artwork right before it was removed and the house was torn down, and some of Rick's later work, including "Curse of the Chumash," Murphy, SURFER magazine's "Maui No Ka Oe," and Pacific Vibrations.

Our Supporters are Unique!

One of our "Benefactor Circle Level" supporters recently sent us this photo taken in their yard in Wyoming. For the sake of the moose, the "toreador" shall remain unnamed. We blurred the photo for the rest of our sakes.


SHF Visitors

We get a wide range of visitors on any given day. Local groms, legends, pros, and a fair number from foreign lands.
Dale Hope, author and Aloha Shirt historian, with Steve Wilkings. photo: Linda Michael  

 Paul Strauch with Malibu legend, Lance Carson and his dog, Bruce. photo: Linda Michael  

2 legendary surf photographers, Steve WIlkings and Bernie Baker. photo: Linda Michael  

A Mike Hynson sighting in our Endless Summer display. photo: Linda Michael  

Bill Vetter, one of the original founders of the San Onofre Surf Club. photo: Linda Michael

2007 Longboard Champ, Phil Rajzman, SHACC founder, Dick Metz, and Von Sol's Sean Matteson. photo: Linda Michael

Chris, Anthony, and Cory. photo: Linda Michael

Auro and Andrea were visiting from Italy. They're currently working on John Severson's next book project. photo: Linda Michael

Travis Trick brought the Nike crew by for a tour. photo: Linda Michael

Bill Winterhalter and Gil Orr (Gil is one half of the Duo Tones and a member of the Chantays). photo: Linda Michael

Johan Dryselius and Jako Ahlstedt came all the way from Sweden. photo: Linda Michael

Bing Copeland checking out the Donald Takayama exhibit and the Bing - Nuuhiwa Noserider model, designed by Donald. photo: Linda Michael

 Lois Pyanowsla, J. Scott Klossner, Kira Dave, and Terri Tucker, were here from Arizona and Rockaway, NY. photo: Linda Michael 

 Paul Strauch, Bob Neely, and Barry Haun, with some the cool XM SurfMore products that Neely carries. We offer your choice of a short or longboard leash with our Family and above Memberships. photo: Linda Michael 

 Ted Whitaker and 'Ema Latu from New Zealand. photo: Linda Michael 

Yusuke Hanai, Hi-dutch, Hide, J.T., visiting from Japan. photo: Linda Michael 

 Henry Ford, Duncan Wilson, Paul Strauch, and members of the Tiger Cub Scouts. 

Paul Strauch with Mike McIntyre and fellow Members of the Haggerty's Surf Club. 

 Lonnie Argabright, Kara Schrage, Jason Joseph Lusk, and Paul Strauch. 

 Rusty Miller and Tricia Shantz check out the Griffin Walls. photo: Linda Michael 

Local "Tiger" Cubscouts with Henry Ford, Dick Metz, and Paul Strauch. Dick is holding his original Boy Scout uniform and Paul is holding a photo of Metz, back when he was a scout. photo:Lori Stephani 

Our favorite NorCal longboarder dropped by for a visit with Alysa and Paul Stafford. photo: Linda Michael

Carl Ekstrom and Richard Kenvin are flanked by Paul Strauch and Barry Haun.

 Lisa Peterson and her husband, Joel Knutson came by today. Lisa is legendary waterman, Pete Peterson's daughter and she's holding the rail of one of Pete's hollow boards. A similar one sold at our auction for $32K! Both Pete and Whitey shaped boards at the Pacific System Homes factory in LA.  

Lorrin "Whitey" Harrison's granddaughter, Shelly Coe, and her son Wyatt dropped by. They're standing by one of Whitey's hollow models

SHACC Creative Director, Barry Haun with Astrodeck's Herbie Fletcher. This hot curl was shaped by Herbie's father-in-law, Walter Hoffman and then reshaped by Renny Yater. Some solid lineage.

Rob Sachse and his daughter Belle. Belle's favorite board was this gun that belonged to the late Mark Foo.

Jack McCoy stopped by in July to screen "A Deeper Shade of Blue" and do a Q&A at the SHACC.

 Lindsay and Matt Hopgood were over from Kent in the UK.

 Denny Aaberg, Pau lStrauch, and Mike and Catherine Shellman.

 Dennis Shields, Bruce Meade, Paul-Strauch and Mike Salter.

 Melody DeCarlo and Dan Mahoney were visiting from Cocoa Beach Surf Museum in Florida.

Visitors, Rusty Wyly, Monica McCabe and Brett Staska.

Michael Stewart and Kevin Whilden from Sustainable Surf. We're collaborating on an exhibit that will open here in November 2013.

Jim Wade, and Allen and John Faas (of Allen Surfboards).

 Harry Bold, Paul Naude and Dick Metz.

 Dick Metz and Robert Hendrikson.

 Joseph Alphabet,Carl Tanner, Harry Bold, Mike Brown, Darryl Homan, Dick Metz and Bruce Little.

 Manuel Arroyo, Paula Armengod, Yago de la Mora from Santander, Spain.

 Asaki, Nemoto, Yamaguchi, Hanzawa, Nishitani, and Miyamoto from Japan.

Ivo Kemper and Tamar Moorman from Holland.

 Hans Tegebo brought by Dale Webster's board that Dale broke the "13,000 consecutive days surfed" mark with. Dale's now at 36 years of surfing everyday, catching at least 4 waves each session. Who says surfers are obsessed. We'll be displaying the board here while it's on loan.

  Jon and Rosa Wegener came by for a first-time visit, to see the Grain board building class in progress. They were naturally drawn to this hollow Gordon Woods board.

 The February 2013 graduation Grain board building class. As you can see, a wide variety of shapes were worked on. (That's 2 time world longboard champ, Jen Smith, seated with her brand new paipo)

  Jackson and Mark Christy flank Dick Metz at our "Evening with Dick Metz". We'll be putting out a DVD as soon  as we're done with editing. 

  Tom Morey showing Leo Hetzel something of interest, we're sure.

  Vincent Kemp helped out during the Grain board building class and when it was over, he donated his paipo that he had previously built from a Grain kit that he had sent away for.

Paul Strauch and Jonathan Jenkins at our evening with Metz. Jonathan has helped us video most of the events and many interviews over the last few years.

  Peter Mel is part of our California Gold Auction Committee. Pete recently won the Mav's contest!

  Dick Metz and some of his classmates from Redlands College, class of 1954.

Dick Metz giving a tour to his Redlands Classmates.

Legendary surfer, skier, and Chart House restaurant founder, Joey Cabell with Dick Metz.

Local surfer, artist, hot rodder, etc., Brian Bent stopped by to check out our planks and paddleboards. Brian is hard core old school—no wetsuit, wool sweaters and wooden hollow paddleboards.

The annual Coalition of Surf Club Team Captains meeting was held here recently, just prior to their contest at Church. They were blessed with some of the best wave conditions ever.

Legendary surfer, Bill Fury was here as a guest for the Coalition of Surf Club Team Captains meeting.

L-R: Carl Tanner, Marni Larkin, Joe Larkin and Kelly Larkin.
Joe Larkin, Legendary Australian Shaper, and his daughters, Marni and Kelly and Carl Tanner visited Surfing Heritage last month. Joe was inducted into the International Surfboard Builders Hall of Fame at the Longboard Collectors Club's annual meeting at DoHo.

Asier Antoma, Alex Aristegieta, Patxi Usubiaga, Ignacio Liria, and Cedric were visiting from the Basque Country, Spain. They all picked up these vintage Aloha print shirts we have for sale here at SHF.

Lisa Newin, Julie Daumes, Cesar Moreira, and Albert and Mindy Elliott.

We turned the tables on "Curious" Gabe Sullivan and asked him which was his favorite board from our collection. The AH-Wooooo!

Founding Partners, Mark and Cindy Fragale were here on a visit from Oahu. Mark runs the Honolulu Surfing Museum.

Miles, Blake, Dean, Noah, and Sean. Nuff said.

Nasrin Rahinieh, George Lang, John and Karen Young, and Angie Alford.

Steve West, Kurt Feeter, Kirby Fosgatt came down from Santa Cruz.

 Jeff and Azure Wolfe, and Karen and Greg Chisolm were here to see our Weber exhibit. 

Bill Zielinski, and Rena and Tim Passar were here on Oct 18. 

Early Hobie employee, Dennis Olsen came by with family members for a visit. 

Gene Cooper makes some of the most beautiful wave-riding toys around-this one is headed to Japan.

Tim Bessell donated a cherry Bodyglove wetsuit from the early 1970s. He also had one of his "Warhol" surfboards with him.

Jack and Mary Jo Lincke stopped by for a visit and liked this redwood and balsa mini gun Greg Noll made for Dick Metz.

This photo is from last year when Derek Jardine was visiting from South Africa and Doc Paskowitz and he came in for an interview.

SHF Founding Partners, Teresa and Sam Gornto were visiting from Florida.

 SHF Founding & Sustaining Partners, Joe and Ellie Dunn brought the extended family by for a visit. Dick Metz was here to give them the grand tour.

 Gracelyn Rezmer was visiting from Wisconsin and looking for material on Tom Blake (also from Wisconsin), for a school project. We highly approve of her choice of subject matter!

 Photographer, Tim Hogan is producing a book on the history of surfboard fins and has been shooting many boards and fins from our collection. It's an amazingly elaborate set-up that he utilizes, each fin takes about an hour to photograph.

 Troy McElveen is assisting Tim on the surfboard fin project. Here he is operating another piece of the equipment they use.

 Floyd Smith, Dick Metz, and George Bensen.

 Floyd Smith and George Bensen standing in front of one of George's restored Woodies.

South Coast Distributor, Rick Arons, and Mike Perch.

San Clemente Mayor, Jim Evert, and San Onofre Foundation and California Surf Museum President, Jim Kempton, posing here in front of Greg Long's Eddie board.

Dick Metz and Steve Wilking's friend, surfer Malcolm McCassy.

Craig Le Seuer, the winner of our Found It In the Archives contest dropped by.

Rick Thompson, our next-door neighbor at ReShape Medical came by to do some shopping.

SHF Photo Archivist, Steve Wilkings and Roger Yates (Forgotten Island of Santosha) pose in front of the Velzy Shaping Shack.

SHF Curator, Barry Haun is pictured here with surfing historian, Bruce Gabrielson, and HB legend, Chuck Linnen. Bruce donated a couple of Dale Velzy's shaping lights and one of Dale's gun templates.

Harlan Patterson and Kevin Julien were visiting from Nova Scotia. Harlan glassed the Todd Chesser, Rusty surfboard back when he owned Pacific Surf Glass. photo: Linda Michael

   Colin Foulker and Chris Bugge were visiting from the UK.

  Dan, Nora, and Tom McCarthy were here from Long Beach, New York.

   George Stremple in red is holding one of the boards he donated a few years back and Frank Van Wickle is holding one of 4 boards donated by the Quinard family.

 Glen Thompson is over from South Africa and using our library to do research for his thesis.

Legendary Shaper, Rich Harbour and Steve Wilkings check out one of Phil Edwards' shapes.

Brothers Britt and Chris Janusz with a couple boards from their collection.

Mike Schwarner, and Vincent and Emilie. Vincent and Emilie were visiting from France.

Paul and Karen Samuelson with a balsa board that was glassed by Danny Brawner.

Fuzzy foto. That's Christian Driggs, Rob Givens, Lindsay Perry, and Pierce Michael Kavanagh stopping by for a visit yesterday.

About a dozen Adventure Guides-Big Sky Circle, Laguna Niguel Nation, came by for a visit and tour. Being second-graders, I was able to hold their attention for about 30 seconds, but their dads seemed to appreciate the info. Barry, SHF Curator, etc.

Our archivist Becki Church's sister Amy, and her family. Husband Bryan, and kids, Katie, Isaac, Mckenzie, and Benny Thulin.

SHF Curator Barry Haun, legendary shaper Terry Martin, David Krause, SHF co-founder Spencer Croul, and SHF Executive Director Bolton Colburn

The Coalition of Surf Clubs' Team Captains and various members, met at SHF on the eve of the annual Church contest, 1/6/12.

SHF Director & docent, Denny Michael, accepts a $1,000 donation from DLSA President Mark Calkins, and DSLA VP Bobby Knox. Thank you Doheny Longboard Surfing Association!

Surfing legend and former Hawaii State Senator, Fred Hemmings dropped by and met our new Executive Director, Bolton Colburn. Fred's daughter, Kaui Hart Hemmings, wrote the novel, "The Descendants”, whose film version with George Clooney, is nominated for 5 Oscars.

Kemp Aaberg and Richard Yelland working on 12 Miles North: the Nick Gabeldon Story.

Stoked Groms, Noah Cordoza, Dean Michael, and Ben Cordoza.

Mark Weiner, San Diego charger Richard Kenvin, and designer/shaper Carl Ekstrom.

Scott Bass, Wade Koniakowsky and Barry Haun hold up a piece of fiberglass and resin taken from a Matt Kivlin Malibu Chip that is being restored. Wade will be painting the artwork for the Surfing Heritage Vintage Surf Auction directly on the fiberglass.

Michael "Salt" Labita with the Jed Noll, Steven Thomas model that he created the artwork for.

Charlie Fernandez (Jimmy Buffett's manager), and Russ Kunkle (long time drummer for Jackson Browne) came by for a visit. Charlie is now the proud owner of the JP St Pierre (Surfy Surfy) customized Enjoy handplane.


Digital Watermarking of our images – Public Notice

As part of our commitment to protecting our image donors, the Surfing Heritage Foundation has begun using digital watermarking on ALL of our images, including those images seen on our website. This watermark is not visible to the eye, but is easily seen by many computer programs such at Photoshop and other image editing programs. In addition, we have also purchased a “watermark spider” that crawls the Internet specifically looking for any images that contain our SHF watermark. The Surfing Heritage Foundation is prepared to take the appropriate action should we find any illegal or unlicensed usage of images from our files.